Saturday, August 22, 2009
Brandenburg Gate reflection
Just a quick note on a picture of the Brandenburg Gate I saw the other day. In the photo, the Wall went right behind the gate and there was absolutely nothing near it--just a gigantic no-man's land of emptiness. It was surprising to me because now the entire are is filled with shops and office buildings and people and activity. During the communist era, it was a dead zone. Amazing how things change.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Europe: Part 4--Prague
When we left Berlin, we drove through Germany (I'm afraid I fell asleep and missed some of the countryside) to Dresden. It is a beautiful city that was firebombed into total ruins during the waning days of World War II. Apparently the Nazi's had bombed Coventry, England early in the war and the bombing of Dresden was a kind of payback. Neither city had any real military value--no military bases, no factories, nothing of value except beauty and history. So, both were destroyed. I understand that Kurt Vonnegut's book Slaughterhouse Five is his take on the bombing of Dresden (he was a POW there when it happened) and I think I'll read the book as soon as I can make space on my "to read" shelf. In any case, today Dresden is rebuilt and lovely. We wandered through a former castle, now an art museum, enjoyed the fountain-laden hideaway where the local ruler used to chase girls, and saw a now-ironic East German mural depicting the ultimate triumph (not) of communism. We also had a delicious lunch at a Dutch restaurant (I know, we were in Germany, but it was handy and yummy) and then went on our travels.
We made an afternoon stop at Terizen or Theresenstadt, a show-place concentration camp that was established near Prague. It was the camp that Hitler opened to Red Cross inspectors, the place where Jews were well-treated and happy. Not. Behind the facade were cramped quarters and daily death; it just wasn't on the vast scale of Auschwitz or some of the other camps. I saw many members of our group wiping tears as we quietly filed through rooms only about twice the size of my classroom that held 600 prisoners and looking at the closet-sized solitary confinement cells. It was a very somber place, one that makes you think deeply about the inhumanity wars bring. I did think to ask our guide about the hometown of some of my ancestors, Brno, which is in the Czech Republic, and he told me a bit about it.
We had a quiet ride from there to Prague, where we were greeted by a rather fierce thunderstorm. We got drenched just trying to collect our luggage and get into the hotel--and this one was disappointing, just as the one in Paris was. Berlin had a great hotel, but Prague, not so much.
Our first evening, we just went to dinner and tried to settle in and dry off.
The next day we took a long, loooonnnnnggg walking tour of Prague. It's a gorgeous city--beautiful medieval architecture, but they won't let buses into the city center, and you must walk quite a distance. I was worried about my friend Trudy, who had some nasty blisters, and we just kept walking and walking and walking. But, we did see some beautiful sites. St. Vitius cathedral on Castle Hill was stunning, and I actually remember it because it had several windows done in the early twentieth century by an immensely talented art nouveau artist. It was gorgeous in the sunlight. (I have to say, after you visit a lot of Gothic cathedrals, they sort of begin getting mixed up in your mind--big, dark, you know--but this one definitely stands out). I believe the original glass was destroyed, but it could not have been more beautiful than what is there now.
Then we walked (and walked and walked--you get the picture) across the Charles Bridge and into Prague. I was most impressed with our guide, a small man who obviously has an immense pride in his country. You forget sometimes, when you're an American and you live in the world's main superpower, that people in small places also have reason for pride and patriotism. The city is lovely, and its history is fascinating. I learned so much on this trip about the history of central and eastern Europe. For example, I did not know that at one time the Holy Roman Empire had it's headquarters in Prague. This was because the rulers had to leave Vienna in the 1500s and 1600s when the Ottomans (Muslims) were invading. Prague was a bit more off the beaten path, (and not located on the Danube), and was therefore a safer place.
In the castle, we also walked down Golden Lane, where goldsmiths once worked (and Franz Kafka lived for a time) and it's now filled with tiny shops just waiting to help you spend your money. I bought a bookmark for Lauren with a Golem, a creature brought to life by a Rabbi supposedly to protect the Jews (it's a story from the middle ages). By the way, the Czech Republic is not on the Euro yet, but they were willing to take them, so it worked well. You just tended to get your change back in Czech Kronas, which you can't spend anywhere else......The lady in the shop also told me that Sobeslav, another city of my ancestors, is a beautiful, farming area south of Prague. I didn't get there this trip, but maybe I can return one day.
And, we learned about the feisty Bohemian people who inhabit Prague (this area of the Czech Republic is known as Bohemia). And, by the way, Bohemia is a part of the county and it became an adjective for odd or offbeat behavior because people thought that Gypsies came from Bohemia and they also thought the Gypsies were strange. So, there's a bit of trivia for you. But Bohemians aren't strange, they're just natives of the Czech Republic.
Now, back to the feisty people. At one point in their history, the Bohemians and Czechs got tired of the Hapsburgs ruling them from Vienna. So, on one occasion, they literally threw the rulers' representatives out the window. I thought it was pretty funny and we saw the actual tossing window. It was a long fall.....
After lunch, Trudy decided to find a park bench to rest and wait for us, and Kara, Ashley and I wandered down Parizka street (yep, it's Paris street and it's filled with expensive shops: Prada, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Versace, if it's expensive, it's there on Paris street in Prague). We also walked through the Jewish district, but didn't go inside the synagogues because the tour of the whole district was 30 euros and we just didn't want to spend it. We wandered past the Franz Kafka cafe and one of his houses and also The Metamorphosis hotel. I told the girls that after reading the book I don't think I could stay there. I don't want to be Sherry the beetle.
We had a fun time shopping for souvenirs and found a shop run by two crazy Turkish guys where we bought several items emblazoned with "Czech Me Out." Too funny.....
After all the walking, Trudy and I were happy to rest for the evening, but Kara went with all the other kids, Ms. Crane, and Alyssa's grandmother Joann to the Black Light Theater and then to the biggest dance club in Central Europe. From the pictures and their descriptions, it sounds like everyone had a great time.
The next day, we headed out again, this time with a stop in Bratislava, Slovakia and then on to Budapest. I loved seeing the Czech countryside. It was rolling hills covered with trees, much like Virginia or Tennessee--absolutely beautiful. Then I thought of my ancestors who left that gorgeous country to settle in South Dakota--the great plains, big, flat, and not a tree for miles and miles and miles. Brave people, those Bohemians.
By the way, if you missed London, Paris, or Berlin, they are also here (just keep searching).
Next stop: Budapest!
We made an afternoon stop at Terizen or Theresenstadt, a show-place concentration camp that was established near Prague. It was the camp that Hitler opened to Red Cross inspectors, the place where Jews were well-treated and happy. Not. Behind the facade were cramped quarters and daily death; it just wasn't on the vast scale of Auschwitz or some of the other camps. I saw many members of our group wiping tears as we quietly filed through rooms only about twice the size of my classroom that held 600 prisoners and looking at the closet-sized solitary confinement cells. It was a very somber place, one that makes you think deeply about the inhumanity wars bring. I did think to ask our guide about the hometown of some of my ancestors, Brno, which is in the Czech Republic, and he told me a bit about it.
We had a quiet ride from there to Prague, where we were greeted by a rather fierce thunderstorm. We got drenched just trying to collect our luggage and get into the hotel--and this one was disappointing, just as the one in Paris was. Berlin had a great hotel, but Prague, not so much.
Our first evening, we just went to dinner and tried to settle in and dry off.
The next day we took a long, loooonnnnnggg walking tour of Prague. It's a gorgeous city--beautiful medieval architecture, but they won't let buses into the city center, and you must walk quite a distance. I was worried about my friend Trudy, who had some nasty blisters, and we just kept walking and walking and walking. But, we did see some beautiful sites. St. Vitius cathedral on Castle Hill was stunning, and I actually remember it because it had several windows done in the early twentieth century by an immensely talented art nouveau artist. It was gorgeous in the sunlight. (I have to say, after you visit a lot of Gothic cathedrals, they sort of begin getting mixed up in your mind--big, dark, you know--but this one definitely stands out). I believe the original glass was destroyed, but it could not have been more beautiful than what is there now.
Then we walked (and walked and walked--you get the picture) across the Charles Bridge and into Prague. I was most impressed with our guide, a small man who obviously has an immense pride in his country. You forget sometimes, when you're an American and you live in the world's main superpower, that people in small places also have reason for pride and patriotism. The city is lovely, and its history is fascinating. I learned so much on this trip about the history of central and eastern Europe. For example, I did not know that at one time the Holy Roman Empire had it's headquarters in Prague. This was because the rulers had to leave Vienna in the 1500s and 1600s when the Ottomans (Muslims) were invading. Prague was a bit more off the beaten path, (and not located on the Danube), and was therefore a safer place.
In the castle, we also walked down Golden Lane, where goldsmiths once worked (and Franz Kafka lived for a time) and it's now filled with tiny shops just waiting to help you spend your money. I bought a bookmark for Lauren with a Golem, a creature brought to life by a Rabbi supposedly to protect the Jews (it's a story from the middle ages). By the way, the Czech Republic is not on the Euro yet, but they were willing to take them, so it worked well. You just tended to get your change back in Czech Kronas, which you can't spend anywhere else......The lady in the shop also told me that Sobeslav, another city of my ancestors, is a beautiful, farming area south of Prague. I didn't get there this trip, but maybe I can return one day.
And, we learned about the feisty Bohemian people who inhabit Prague (this area of the Czech Republic is known as Bohemia). And, by the way, Bohemia is a part of the county and it became an adjective for odd or offbeat behavior because people thought that Gypsies came from Bohemia and they also thought the Gypsies were strange. So, there's a bit of trivia for you. But Bohemians aren't strange, they're just natives of the Czech Republic.
Now, back to the feisty people. At one point in their history, the Bohemians and Czechs got tired of the Hapsburgs ruling them from Vienna. So, on one occasion, they literally threw the rulers' representatives out the window. I thought it was pretty funny and we saw the actual tossing window. It was a long fall.....
After lunch, Trudy decided to find a park bench to rest and wait for us, and Kara, Ashley and I wandered down Parizka street (yep, it's Paris street and it's filled with expensive shops: Prada, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Versace, if it's expensive, it's there on Paris street in Prague). We also walked through the Jewish district, but didn't go inside the synagogues because the tour of the whole district was 30 euros and we just didn't want to spend it. We wandered past the Franz Kafka cafe and one of his houses and also The Metamorphosis hotel. I told the girls that after reading the book I don't think I could stay there. I don't want to be Sherry the beetle.
We had a fun time shopping for souvenirs and found a shop run by two crazy Turkish guys where we bought several items emblazoned with "Czech Me Out." Too funny.....
After all the walking, Trudy and I were happy to rest for the evening, but Kara went with all the other kids, Ms. Crane, and Alyssa's grandmother Joann to the Black Light Theater and then to the biggest dance club in Central Europe. From the pictures and their descriptions, it sounds like everyone had a great time.
The next day, we headed out again, this time with a stop in Bratislava, Slovakia and then on to Budapest. I loved seeing the Czech countryside. It was rolling hills covered with trees, much like Virginia or Tennessee--absolutely beautiful. Then I thought of my ancestors who left that gorgeous country to settle in South Dakota--the great plains, big, flat, and not a tree for miles and miles and miles. Brave people, those Bohemians.
By the way, if you missed London, Paris, or Berlin, they are also here (just keep searching).
Next stop: Budapest!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)